A Bistro with a Polish Feel

Mariana Figueroa

Photos: Aron Covaliu

At Plaza Fundadores, in Queretaro’s historic center, you can find La Vieja Varsovia, a place that was born as a mother dough-based Polish-style bakery and, after a few years, evolved into a popular small bistro where you can enjoy pizzas, salads, sandwiches and an extensive menu of beverages that includes teas, tisanes and infusions. If you don’t eat meat, they have vegan friendly options.

   The coffee here is one of the best in the city; it’s organic, from Chiapas and Veracruz, roasted and ground in Queretaro, in addition to being fair trade, says Maya Dena, who manages the place with Nancy Niembro.

   "It's a mix of coffee from Coatepec, Veracruz, and one from Chiapas, from a Tzeltal community called Chilon. These communities work as a cooperative; they’re doing organic production, selecting their processes and participating with cooperatives of women who sew the sacks. It is marketed through other sales cooperatives that always prioritize making the highest payment of the season, so there is no haggling process."

Our favorite: 

Chocolate cinnamon rolls, made with the cocoa beans they roast in their own stone oven.

What makes this flat bean, Arabica coffee even more exeptional -adds Maya- is the relationship that extends from the Tzeltal producers to the cooperative that distributes and sells the product in this city.

   "It is a quality product like many other coffees that can be sold in Mexico, however, it seems to me that the intimate and respectful personal relationship that exists between the entire chain of trade is something that makes it very special."

   Aside from the different varieties of coffees they offer, we particularly like their (highly artisanal) hot chocolate with cardamom, a unique treat to enjoy slowly while you watch people pass by at the square.


What started it all: the best bread in Queretaro


La Vieja Varsovia, Manuel Gutierrez Najera Sur 46, Plaza Fundadores, Queretaro, Mx. 442-212-5117.  

Tell Maya and Nancy we sent you.